Let's Make a Cylinder!
Amigurumi Pattern Generator
Cylinder Ends & Stuffing
Why make a cylinder?
The cylinder is the second most essential shape in amigurumi construction. While spheres make great heads and rounded bodies, cylinders form the structural backbone for limbs, necks, torsos, and specialized accessories.
Classic & Primary Uses
Amigurumi Limbs & Features:
- Arms, Legs, and Tails: Straight or slightly tapered tubes form animal legs, doll arms, tails, and tentacles.
- Necks & Torsos: Long or stout cylindrical sections build structural necks and main bodies for standing figures.
Clothing & Accessories:
- Sweater sleeves, wizard hats, tree trunks, plant stems, or cylindrical mugs and bottles.
What are Yarn Weights?
US System uses numbers (0-7) and descriptive terms (Fingering, Worsted, Bulky). UK/AU/NZ System frequently uses "Ply" (e.g., 4-ply, 8-ply).
| Standard # | Category Name | Common Names / Terminology | Typical Crochet Hook Size | Common Uses |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0 | Lace | Thread, Cobweb | 1.4 mm - 2.25 mm | Micro-amigurumi, lace. |
| 1 | Super Fine | Fingering, Sock | 2.25 mm - 3.5 mm | Socks, light garments. |
| 2 | Fine | Sport | 3.5 mm - 4.5 mm | Light sweaters, accessories. |
| 3 | Light | DK, Light Worsted | 4.5 mm - 5.5 mm | Sweaters, baby blankets, amigurumi. |
| 4 | Medium | Worsted, Aran | 5.5 mm - 6.5 mm | Standard workhorse: blankets, amigurumi. |
| 5 | Bulky | Chunky, Craft | 6.5 mm - 9.0 mm | Warm hats, fast plushies. |
| 6 | Super Bulky | Super Chunky | 9.0 mm - 15.0 mm | Plush velvet toys, thick scarves. |
| 7 | Jumbo | Giant Plush | 15.0 mm+ | Giant chunky blankets. |
Amigurumi Yarn & Hook Guide
What type of yarn should I use specifically for Amigurumi?
Standard crochet patterns (like blankets or garments) use larger hooks to create a soft, flexible drape. Amigurumi requires a tight, dense fabric so the fiberfill stuffing doesn't poke out through the stitches. The golden rule for amigurumi is to drop 1 to 3 hook sizes (0.5 mm - 1.5 mm smaller) than what the yarn skein label recommends.
3 Rules of Thumb for Choosing Your Hook
- Check for "Gapping": If you stuff your piece and can see white stuffing poking between your single crochet stitches, drop down 0.5 mm in hook size.
-
Yarn Fiber Matters:
- 100% Cotton: Zero stretch. You can stick closer to a 3.0 mm – 3.5 mm hook for worsted weight.
- Acrylic: Slight give/stretch. Usually pairs best with a 3.5 mm – 4.0 mm hook for worsted weight.
- Chenille / Velvet Yarns: Notoriously tricky because pulling stitches too tight can cause "snagging" or breaking the core thread. Using a 5.0 mm – 6.5 mm hook is usually the sweet spot to keep it plush without losing shape.
- Stitch Tension & Style: If you use the "Yarn Under, Yarn Over" (X-stitch) method instead of standard "Yarn Over, Yarn Over" (V-stitch), your stitches naturally sit tighter, allowing you to use a slightly larger hook while keeping the fabric dense.
What hook should I use specifically for Amigurumi?
| Yarn Weight Category | Recommended Amigurumi Hook Size | Common Yarn Types for Amigurumi |
|---|---|---|
| #1 Super Fine / Fingering | 1.5 mm - 2.25 mm (Steel Hooks or B-1) | Micro-amigurumi, crochet thread, lace-weight cotton |
| #2 Fine / Sport | 2.0 mm - 2.75 mm (B-1 to C-2) | Detailed mini plushies, 4-ply cotton/acrylic blends |
| #3 Light / DK | 2.5 mm - 3.25 mm (C-2 to D-3) | Fine detail amigurumi, Ricorumi, Paintbox DK |
| #4 Medium / Worsted | 3.25 mm - 4.0 mm (D-3 to G-6) | The Classic Workhorse: Red Heart Super Saver, Impeccable, Caron Simply Soft |
| #5 Bulky | 4.5 mm - 5.5 mm (H-8 to I-9) | Chunky acrylics, lightweight chenille |
| #6 Super Bulky | 6.0 mm - 8.0 mm (J-10 to L-11) | Plush velvet yarns (e.g., Premier Parfait Chunky, Sweet Snuggles) |
| #7 Jumbo | 9.0 mm - 12.0 mm (M-13 to N-15) | Giant plushies, Bernat Blanket Extra |
Stuffing Types Guide
| Stuffing Type | Best For | Pros | Cons |
|---|---|---|---|
| Polyester Fiberfill (Poly-Fil) | Standard choice for almost all amigurumi |
• Inexpensive and widely available • Machine washable & quick-drying • Hypoallergenic & lightweight • Good bounce-back (resilient) |
• Can clump over time if low quality • Can show/poke through loose stitches |
| 100% Cotton Stuffing | Natural, eco-friendly, or organic toys |
• 100% natural and biodegradable • Provides a firmer, denser, and heavier feel |
• Retains moisture (slow drying, risk of mold) • Packs down over time and loses fluffiness • More expensive & harder to find |
| Wool Stuffing | High-end or Waldorf-style handcrafted dolls |
• Natural, breathable, and warm • Holds firm shapes exceptionally well • Comforting, substantial weight |
• Not machine washable (will felt and shrink) • Can trigger wool allergies • Susceptible to moths; expensive |
| Fabric Scraps & Yarn Ends | Zero-waste projects & weighted bases |
• 100% free and eco-friendly • Great for adding weight to the bottom of toys |
• Can create a bumpy or lumpy finish • Hard to distribute evenly around smooth curves |
| Poly Pellets / Glass Beads | Adding sitting weight to bases (used with fiberfill) |
• Gives toys a weighted, self-sitting base • Excellent stability for posture |
• Severe choking hazard if unbagged • Must be placed inside a sealed inner pouch • Not suitable for stuffing whole toys |
Cylinder Ends Guide: Open vs. Closed
Choosing whether your cylinder is open or closed depends entirely on how it connects to your project or if it functions as an independent standalone piece.
| Cylinder Type | Best Used For | Construction Details |
|---|---|---|
| Closed (Flat Bottom / Top Closure) |
• Standing doll legs and feet • Solid animal torsos or snouts • Standalone cylindrical items (mugs, pillars, stems) |
Starts with a flat circular base (or magic ring increase rounds) and finishes with a seamless decrease round to completely close off the top or bottom. |
| Open (Tube / Limb Sleeve) |
• Sleeves for clothing or costumes • Tentacles, floppy arms, or hollow handles • Connecting directly into a body opening (no sewn-on base needed) |
Worked straight in continuous rounds from a starting chain or ring without any starting or ending decrease caps, leaving both ends open as a hollow tube. |